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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.